The kitchen is the room where lighting works the hardest. We chop, cook,
read recipes, and more and more often, we also eat and gather around the
kitchen island. A single light fixture in the center of the ceiling
isn't enough to handle all these tasks—that's why a well-lit kitchen
always relies on several layers of light. Here are some tips on how to
light your countertop, kitchen island, and dining area, what color of
light to choose, and when a track lighting system works best.

Table of Contents
- Three layers of light in the kitchen
- General lighting – ceiling lights, spotlights, or track
lighting?
- Work surface lighting
- Lamps over the kitchen island
- Lamp over the table in the kitchen and kitchenette
- Lighting track for the kitchen
- What color and brightness of light for the
kitchen?
- Common mistakes
- Under-cabinet lighting in practice
- Summary
Three layers of light in the kitchen
When designing kitchen lighting, it’s helpful to think of it as three
independent circuits:
- General lighting – evenly illuminates the entire room and allows
you to move around freely. This could be a ceiling light, recessed
spotlights, or a track lighting system with spotlights.
- Task lighting —focused on the countertop, stovetop, and sink,
i.e., where your hands and sharp tools are at work. Most commonly
achieved with under-cabinet lighting.
- Mood and decorative lighting – pendant lights above an island or
table, backlighting for display cabinets or plinths. It sets the
mood and helps "dampen" the kitchen in the evening.
It's best to connect each layer to a separate switch. That way, in the
morning you can turn on just the task light above the counter, and at
dinnertime, just the lamp above the table.
General lighting—ceiling light, spotlights, or track lighting?
In kitchens with low ceilings (standard 2.5–2.7 m), recessed lights ( Flush Ceiling Lights ) and surface-mounted fixtures work best—they don’t restrict headroom
and provide a wide, even distribution of light. In kitchens with
suspended ceilings, recessed spotlights are popular, arranged along the
work areas rather than just in the center of the room.
More and more often, the role of general lighting is being taken over by
track lighting with movable spotlights. This solution is
exceptionally practical: you can move the spotlights closer together,
further apart, and rotate them exactly where you need the light—without
having to drill into the walls or alter the wiring.
Work surface lighting
The countertop is an area where lighting is a matter of safety, not just
aesthetics. When standing at the countertop, our backs block the light
coming from the ceiling—which is why we always illuminate the work area
with under-cabinet lighting, installed beneath the bottom edge of
the wall cabinets.
A few practical tips:
- Run LED strips or strips along the entire work area, not just in a
spot above the sink.
- Choose fixtures with a frosted diffuser—they diffuse the light and
don’t create glare on the glossy countertop.
- The best color temperature above the countertop is neutral white
(3500–4000 K) —it doesn’t distort the colors of food, which is
important when cooking.
- In the area around the sink, look for fixtures with a higher
protection rating (IP44).
Lights over the kitchen island
A kitchen island is the perfect setting for pendant lights —they are
what most often define the character of the entire kitchen. How do you
choose them?
- Suspension height: the shade should hang about 75–90 cm above
the island countertop. A low-hanging lamp illuminates the countertop
without dazzling people standing nearby.
- Number of lamps: for an island up to 1.5 m long, one larger lamp
is sufficient. For longer islands, the classic arrangement of two or
three identical pendants spaced 60–80 cm apart works well.
- Scale: the total diameter of the lampshades should
not exceed approx. 2/3 of the island's length—this makes the
composition look balanced.
A lamp above the table in the kitchen and kitchenette
If there is a table in the kitchen or kitchenette, treat it as a
separate zone. The pendant light above the table should hang slightly
lower than the one above the island—about 60–80 cm above the
tabletop —because we sit at the table, not stand. In the so-called. In
an open-concept kitchen, where the dining area flows seamlessly into the
work area, it looks great to use the same style of lighting fixtures
over the island and over the table, for example. on a different scale or
in a different quantity.
We cover lamp height and diameter selection in more detail in a separate
guide on table lamps, and you can find ready-made suggestions in the
category Dining room lamps.
Lighting track for the kitchen
Lighting tracks for the kitchen are currently one of the most
popular solutions—and it’s no wonder. You can hang several spotlights
from a single power source, and in systems with adapters, you can also
hang lights over the island. When you rearrange the furniture, just move
the light fixtures.
What should you look for?
- A single-phase track allows you to control all the fixtures
together—in most kitchens, that’s enough.
- A three-phase track allows you to divide the
fixtures into three independently switchable circuits, e.g. Separate
task lighting and ambient lighting.
- Spotlights with a color temperature of 3000–4000 K and a high color
rendering index (CRI ≥ 90) work best.
What color and brightness of light for the kitchen?
A neutral color temperature of 3000–4000 K works best in the
kitchen: it is “clean” enough to work comfortably, yet it doesn’t turn
the kitchen into a laboratory. Let’s leave very cold light (6000 K and
above) for garages and workshops.
Approximate lighting requirements:
- entire room: approx. 200–300 lm per m²,
- work surface area: approx. 500 lumens per linear meter of
countertop.
For example: a 10 m² kitchen requires a total of approx. 2,500–3,000
lumens of general lighting, i.e., for example. a 25–35 W LED ceiling
light (the exact power consumption depends on the light source's
efficiency in lm/W) or several track lights.
Common Mistakes
- A single
light 3. fixture in the center of the ceiling —when standing at the
counter, you’ll always be working in your own shadow.
- Mixing light colors —a warm pendant light over the
table next to cold spotlights above the
- counter
can ruin even the most beautiful design. Stick to a single color
within each zone.
- Lights hung too high above the island —they
illuminate the ceiling and are glaring, instead of providing light
for the countertop.
- No separate switches —this deprives the kitchen of half the
possibilities that layered lighting offers.
Under-cabinet lighting in practice
Since countertop lighting determines how comfortable the workspace is,
it’s worth knowing how to install it properly. You have two options:
- LED strip in an aluminum profile – the most flexible option: cut
it to length and run it along the entire row of cabinets. Always
install it in a profile with a frosted diffuser (bare LEDs reflect
off the glossy countertop) and against the cabinet front, not the
wall—this way, the light falls on the countertop rather than the
backsplash itself.
- Under-cabinet linear fixtures – ready-made strips designed to be
connected in a chain, simpler installation at the expense of less
flexibility in length.
What to look for:
- Power supply: the strips operate at 12 or 24 V – a power
supply with a capacity of approx. 20% of the stock, stored in an
accessible, well-ventilated place (e.g. inside a cabinet, not
recessed).
- Color temperature and CRI: 3500–4000 K and
CRI ≥ 90 – accurate color rendering of products during cutting.
- Control: a touch switch or motion sensor under the cabinet turns
on the light when you approach the countertop. Use a controller
compatible with the strip for dimming.
- Sink and cooktop area: choose fixtures with a higher protection
rating (IP44) that are resistant to steam and grease.
Summary
A well-lit kitchen consists of three layers of light: even general
lighting, bright task lighting above the countertop, and mood lighting
above the island or table. A neutral color temperature of 3000–4000 K,
appropriately selected lumens, and separate switches for each zone
account for 90% of the success. The remaining 10% are lamps that you
simply like—and you’ll find plenty of them in the “ Lighting for the kitchen ” category.